Ancient Mariner's Saltwater Tackle & Tips

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DRIFTING/JIGGING made easy

by   Ancient Mariner   (AKA Joe Bielawski)

 

Rigs  -  Baits

Shallow Water  -  Deep Water

Drifting  -  Jigging  -  Casting  -  Wade Fishing  -  Slow Trolling

 

MOST IMPORTANT!!! Use the correct FISHING METHOD, LURE, COLOR & BAIT

Jigging and Drifting are the most popular fishing methods and each produces great results when used at the right time/place.   The choice of lure and bait depends on whether you are jigging or drifting. Lures offered on this site are mentioned when that type of lure is described.

NOTE:

Fluke and Summer Flounder are different ways of naming the same fish. Fluke is the term used here.  Jigging for other species uses the same methods with simple variations.   Deep jigging will also be covered as it’s a site/bottom specific method and requires some specialized gear.

 

CHOOSING THE RIGHT METHOD

Fishing from shore:

From a pier or jetty - JIG.

Wade fishing - JIG

Fishing from a boat:

In water less than 20 ft deep - JIG first then DRIFT.

In water 20 to 50 ft deep:

  • Rough/cobbled bottom, strong current - JIG

  • Rough/cobbled bottom, gentle or no current - JIG or DRIFT

  • Smooth bottom, strong current - DRIFT from deep to shallow

  • Smooth bottom, little current or no bait - AVOID

In water over 50 ft:

  • Next to a wreck or sharp drop off - DEEP JIGIn water deeper than 100 feet – DRIFT or DEEP JIG

  • Otherwise - DRIFT

Any depth:

  • No tide or current, in front of a rip - SLOW TROLL

 

FISHING METHODS

Whichever method you use, most important of all, is to understand the unique, physical characteristics of the fish itself: For example, FLUKE are flat fish that live on the bottom, and are able to see great distances UP and TO BOTH SIDES. They CANNOT see very far directly ahead. Other factors, like the feeding habits of those huge fluke, must always be figured in if you want REAL SUCCESS.   When you fish for fluke with hook and line, you must attract the fish to your bait. Maximize your results by using SIGHT, SMELL and SOUND to turn on those fish!.

Other species such as Cobia, Striped Bass, Black Sea Bass ,etc ,all require modified methods given here.

 

JIGGING

 

SHALLOW WATER (<20ft)

JIGGING LURE:  1 ounce or less in weight. (such as my STAR JIG HEAD)

Keep your lightweight jig head attached to your jigging stick. It is used primarily in shallow waters where the species you’re after are VERY conscious of any disturbance, as in sight, sound , shadows.

For Fluke , a 1oz. jig head with a plastic curly tail attached can be a deadly combination. HINT…HINT…HINT… A small fuzzy body with a small baitfish such a mud minnow or bait strip NO bigger than 2 X 1/8 wide will be added for taste and smell. HINT…HINT…HINT… Make sure that the color of the jig head matches the color of the plastic tail or fuzzy body .

This jig catches all sizes of fluke and other species from Fluke to Redfish to Weakfish to Sea Trout and others.  It is a SHALLOW WATER WONDER. Work the edges of pier pilings, the down current side of bridge abutments, and quiet water in and around marinas for good-sized fluke. Drift it, wade it, cast it - it does it all.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>>

SPECIAL COLOR COMBINATION: BROWN/BLACK

A commercial guy’s secret --> For 7-10 days each year, Jonah crabs molt and doormat-sized fluke suck them up LIKE CRAZY!   Redfish will just inhale this color combination as will almost any other fin fish. So ALWAYS use a brown/black combo as your first choice when using the 1 oz. Jig BROWN/BLACK jig head lure. After brown/black, go with chartreuse first, then white/pearl, then pink/red colors in that order.

JIGGING TIPS

This way to fish is wild! As you drift along, drop your line to the bottom and reel up 1 to 1.5 turns. DROP the rod tip from horizontal, creating 6 inches of slack in your line. Now SNAP the rod tip up about 6 inches, TAKING ONLY THE SLACK out of the line, making the jig DART. That action makes the jig head DART FROM SIDE TO SIDE like a wounded minnow TRYING TO ESCAPE and drives your QUARRY CRAZY! It really works!

I had 2 or 3 fluke come off the bottom CHASING the JIG HEAD and whacking it like crazy. Redfish will jump on it as it slides to one side. Cobia will get hooked deep down. Striped Bass will swim after it and crush it as they turn away. It is something to see and it makes your knees wobbly when it happens. Fluke attack this setup like crazy. This lure actually puts FLUKE in an aggravated state that makes them rush the bait rig and POUNCE with a jarring strike. ZZOOWWEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!

Medium sized Black Sea Bass will gang tackle this rig WHEN rigged with a thin strip bait .

Remember, only hop this jig off the bottom in 10-inch high hops. Do NOT hop it any higher. HINT…HINT…HINT… Just ‘SHIVER’ your rod tip so that the top just constantly flits up and down. This will get any fish into ATTACK mode and will jump all over the jig. You must keep it in the attack zone. FLUKE can see large distances to either side but cannot see too far directly ahead as other predators can. Every few minutes or so, lift this whole rig 1-2 feet up off the bottom. Any cruising bottom dwelling fish will have a good chance at whacking the JIG as it flits away! Continue this 'till that doormat-sized fluke attacks the jig.

<<<WARNING>>><<<WARNING>>> ANY time you feel resistance or weight, DRIVE that hook home with force. When that monster hits (usually on the drop down of the jig, you will sense a slack in the line as it goes into the water. HIT THAT FISH HARD NOW! Do NOT wait for the fish. If you do, he wins and you lose.

JIGGING WHILE WADE FISHING:

Wade fisherman use this same jig in a standard up and down POP off the bottom. The 1-ounce JIG will take many species of shallow water fish. Put a thin, shoestring-wide strip of mackerel belly on it and cast it out. Bounce it back in short hops. Fluke especially can't resist.

 <<<WARNING>>><<<WARNING>>>  WATCH out for deep holes and channel edges. Know where they are and don't step off into them but DO fish the EDGES of them.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> DON'T forget to fish these babies in the evening or at night. These fish are ACTIVE feeders and will come into water as little as 2 feet deep.

CASTING WHEN JIGGING

Use the same bait setup as mentioned above. Cast this alongside jetties, near the side of pier legs and along bridge abutments. Bring it back in a hopping motion. Hold on, 'cause this will catch those hard to hook big’uns. Cast it out above rough bottom (shells, rocks, weeds) and let it fall to the bottom. Jerk it along in 6-inch pulls, ( keep the rod tip DOWN and snap the RODTIP TOWARDS YOU)making the jig dart about 6 inches off the bottom. Fluke will whack it and then try to lie on it. WHACK the fluke A.S.A.P. Other species will ease up and try to pull your rod right out of your hand as they turn AWAY! Cast it around pier heads, pilings, jetties, bridge abutments, grass flats, sea walls, and bring it back. Let it hit bottom, then lift in LONG 12-16 inch lifts and let it fall back . Most fish will hit on the falling rig.

<<<WARNING>>><<<WARNING>>> WATCH THE SLACK LINE! If it stops before it's supposed to, WHACK THAT FISH HARD.

 

DEEPER WATER > 20 ft

 

CHROME BALL JIGGING LURE (such as my DOORMATTER EXPRESS BAIT/JIG LURE)

This is rigged with two hooks and a chrome ball that comes in varying weights for different water depths. The top hook is on a dropper loop and has a custom ATTRACTOR FLY ,usually made up of colored feathers in red or black. The fly has a tubular woven silver body covered by an iridescent plastic tube that glows. The tube has those all important eyes that attract more game fish to your hook. The bottom hook is on a leader with a pink, chartreuse or white nylon attractor fly.

  • The 3 oz lure is made with 30 lb. test leader for water 20-40 ft.
  • The 5 oz lure is made with 50 lb. test leader for water 40-60 ft.
  • The 8 oz lure is also made with 50 lb. test leader material for water greater than 60 ft or very strong       rips and currents
  • The 10 oz lure is also made with 50 pound test leader and 2X strength hooks
  • The 16 oz lure has 60 pound test leader, 2X strength hook and is used primarily in waters 100-180 feet. This IS for BIG BRUSER ‘take no prisoner fish’. It has been used from Canada to Key West to Australia to Norway for ALL species of fish.

The chrome ball flashes the color in all directions and it appears as a small bait ball trying to flee from a predator.

JIGGING TIPS

When you anchor over structure and jig with a CHROME BALL JIG, drop it to the bottom and SSLLOOWWLLYY lift and thump the sinker on the bottom (lift in 1 ft lifts). This allows the bait and t’zer to flutter on the drop back, attracting lots of bottom critters. Make the CHROME BALL JIG drop down tide. After 4 bumps, repeat. Do this 4-5 times, then reel in and repeat above. You are covering a bigger stretch of bottom, disturbing that bottom as if a small BAITPOD is trying to hid themselves.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>>  At the slightest hint of a fish, STRIKE HARD. DO NOT hesitate or you will LOSE the fish.

<<<WARNING>>><<<WARNING>>>> Hold onto the rod 'cause the that MONSTER will jerk the rod right out of your hands, or break the rod tip on the gunnel, if you’re not careful. I know, ‘cause I've seen it happen to unsuspecting fisherman. OOUUCCHH!!

BAIT FOR BOTH THE STAR AND CHROME BALL TYPE LURES

Both lures are baited the same way with the STAR using slightly smaller sized baits. Place a pendant shaped strip of squid, mackerel belly or whitefish 2-3 inches long by 1/4 in. wide. Place one on each hook thru the wide section of the squid strip. Put the hook through the strip ONCE , skin side up. WHY? The strip won't roll back over the barb and stop the hook set. The CHROME BALL TYPE rigs DEMAND strips 3 X ¼ inches long and the BIGGEST mud minnow you can catch or buy.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> Mackerel fillets of the same lengths are much better. Why you ask? The Mack fillet holds its scent longer, holds its color longer, and it stays on the hook longer due to its toughness. Put the fillets in a bag s of 6 and refrigerate for easier handling. That will keep these fillets longer, better, tougher .

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> If you can use live killies/mud minnow types , do so! Attach the killie by running the hook point directly UP from below and just behind the lips. Run the hook point out one side or the other of the killie's eyes. This makes the killie dart even more from side to side, ATTRACTING ALL PREDATORS and causing those DOORMAT FLUKE/STRIPERS/SEATROUT/REDFISH to go into an attacking mode!

COLOR

In general, use chartreuse first, then white/pearl, followed by pink/red. Remember black/brown appears to be a jonah crab or baby sea robin..

 

DEEP JIGGING

 

DEEP JIGGING TECHNIQUES

Deep Jigging is NOT new. The advances in equipment are. I first started out , along with many others, in the NORTHEAST, using the standard 8 foot fiberglass rod mounting a 4/0 reel filled with monofilament, and a heavy 16-42 OUNCE JIG. 

We had progressed to dacron no stretch line over monofilament to wire ( MONEL) for truly deep jigging using progressively lighter jigs. Now the Japanese have invented the new high speed reels, special kevlar, no stretch lines and newly engineered jig designed specifically for this kind of fishing . The depths I now fish is staggering to me. From 200 DOWN to 500 feet. WOW!!!!!!  With the new ELECTRIC REELS we can now fish down to 1000feet. ASTOUNDING isn’t it.

 

DEEP JIGGING in WATER 50-200 feet.

 

CONVENTIONAL STYLE DEEP JIGGING ACTION

Yes, you can still use your old deep jigging rod and reel. The magic of the new kevlar line has made it much easier to drop a 8-12 ounce VIKIE or LAV or DIAMOND or other style jig to the bottom and still catch fish. I still use this style of jigging.

The rod should have a gimbal in the butt. The rod should have a longish rear grip for jigging angle. The reel should be either one of the old style 4/0 or one of the new LIGHTER and stronger geared reels put out by many companies. The introduction to the new NO STRETCH lines to the market has made fishing these depths fun and creditable. These new lines are MUCH SMALLER in diameter than monofilament or dacron. Today a 80 pound line has the diameter of 20 pound class monofilament. YOUWZA!!!!!!

HINT…HINT…HINT… Because the new line has little if any stretch, you MUST use a monofilament or FLORU type leader. This leader absorbs the INITIAL shock of a fish’s hit and power away from your jig. It also allows the new line to be hidden by from the fish’s view.

HINT…HINT…HINT… I believe that the leader length is also important for this trick. Make the leader length EQUAL and slightly longer than the length of the rod measured from the reel to the rod tip and EXTENDING out 6 feet. This allows you to have the leader wrapped around the reel spool PROTECTING the LEADER to LINE CONNECTION. If you fish or a party boat, take into consideration the distance from the waters edge up to the boats rail. Add this distance to the length of your leader. This ALSO keeps that connection from being rubbed against the boats hull where all kinds of obstructions will cut you off or war thru the connection. WOW, lots of things to think about.

CONVENTIONAL JIGS:

The jigs mentioned above ,ALL have single or treble hooks attached to the bottom of the jig. Great if you’re fishing over sand bottom. Not so good if you over kelp, rocks or a wreck. You loose a lot to the wreck and bottom gods. Removing that huge treble hook and substituting a single hook on a quality SWIVEL helps immensely. HINT…HINT…HINT… Adding a curly tail grub or Tube to the single hook will improve your catch immensely. Depending on where you fish, colors are important. HINT…HINT…HINT… UP in the northeast and mid state region, PURPLE would be my 1st choice followed by blood RED than CHARTRUSE and bright GREEN. From the mid Atlantic region down south , PINK will get you your most hits. Followed by BLUE than ORANGE/BROWN. A good selection of colors in jigs and grubs will get you on the fish anywhere in the world. I caught COD and HALIBUT and WOLFISH right from the docks to offshore in NORWAY last year on all different styled jigs.

BUTTTERFLY JIGS :

These jigs are engineered to be specially weighted. The top weight, mid weight and bottom weight give DIFFERENT jig ACTIONS. The sides and lengths of these jigs have been engineered to enhance the activity of each jig. These jigs can move sideways and in sliding, spiraling and sweeping actions, never having been possable before. GOOD STUFF.

These jigs now have the hook removed from the bottom of the jig AND have added an ASSIST type hook system that allows the jig to1). Create more action.2) Keep the fish from USING the jig weight and action as a FULCRUM to throw the hook .3) Designing a better hook style.4) Allows the fisherman to better "FEEL" when a fish is attacking the jig, providing a better hook set.

 

DEEP JIGGING in WATER 200 - 400 feet.

 

This type of deep jigging Must have the new style rods and reels.

The new parabolic rod measure in the 5 to 6 foot size. These rods have a super lifting and tension adjusting set of fibers to make these rods a "MUST". Now add the new reels with 6+ GEAR RATIOS on a light weight and super strong reel body that holds 400-500 feet of the new non-stretch line. These reels have the ability HOOK , STOP, and BRING the denizens of the deep up from 400 feet of water.

The new DESIGNS in JIG technology using everything from aluminum to lead to Titanium metals have created a great way to get down deep for those fish in an environment that has been virtually ignored by the sportsmen and commercial fisherman alike. Use the same types of jigs mentioned for 50 – 200ft depths, increasing the jig weight.

SHORT STROKE VS LONG STROKE JIGGING

The Short stroke was propagated by the Japanese for their BUTTERFLY designed jigs. This system is where you start your rod tip in about the 9 o’clock position and in a circular dropping motion to about 6 o’clock Reeling in the slack while keeping tension on the line . Short lift and reel then repeat the motion to move the jig in a active motion. If you’re strong and healthy, this system will work for you throughout the whole day. It’s a very active and tiring motion for me to keep up for 6+ hours. AGAIN, It is a killer way to catch fish. IT DOES WORK!! The best jigs for this system are in the 4-7 inch sizes and lighter weights.

The long stroke was modified by sportsmen to make the jig do a different motion and not wear down the sportsman. In this system, you start with the rod tip at 7 o’clock and sweep the rod tip up to 11 o’clock. Allow the rod tip to slowly drop back down to 7 o’clock . That will allow the new designed jigs to swing out and around in a enticing motion. The long length jigs work best for this style of jigging motion. Jig lengths from 8-24 inches(YES 24 INCHE LENGTHS) will dominate this deep water fishing. The Australian an New Zealand sportsmen are already dominant in these jig sizes.

Their fishery for their fish is an untapped fishery.

Here in the states, these depths have lots of grouper and wreck fish , just to name a few, in big sizes . There are lots more investigating to do at these depths.

 

DEEP JIGGING in WATER >400 FEET

 

This used to be the realm of the commercial fisherman using nets and ELECTRIC jigging machines. There are now at least three companies that are marketing ELECTRIC fishing reel to sportsmen. It id virtually an UNKOWN , UNTAPPED fishery.

The reels now use less electricity than those of ten years ago. A fully charged car battery will be sufficient to power a ELECTRIC ROD/REEL combo all day. The rods in use were originally cut down BENT BUTT UNLIMITED Tuna/Marlin rods. These still work. Now there are rods being made in the 5 foot range with enough power to haul a 10 pound weight + a 6 hook gangion up from 1000 feet and not be strained at all. These new rod/reel combos combine great strength and durability in an increasing smaller and lighter weight packages.

This is primarily a HOOK BAIT system. Up to 6 hooks on a specially modified leader(400 pound test) with heavy duty swivels and crimps is the ONLY way to go. Bait can be Mackerel chunks, Cut Squid chunks are but a few of the baits to use. This is an ongoing experimentation that the sportsmen are discovering every day. HINT…HINT…HINT… Add a GLOW GREEN or BLUE CYLUME light to the top swivel for added attraction. Why GREEN or BLUE ? I just don’t know. Obviously at those depths over 400 feet , there IS NO DISCERNIBLE LIGHT AT ALL.I guess the creatures that live at those depths and hunt for their food depend on some kind of BIOLUMINESCENCE given off by themselves or by their prey when their prey is disturbed by something. MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

NOTE:

The new PARABOLIC rods in 5-6 feet lengths are a MUST for waters >200ft! Being developed now are the rods in the 7+ foot lengths for deep jigging in waters over 400 feet.

 

DRIFTING

 

For FLUKE, I use a custom made rig which is ‘THE’ PREMIER fluke bait/rig for drifting (my SUPER DOORMATTER LURE). This rig is also used when you have MODERATE to STRONG tides/currents/winds. I have used this as deep as 80 feet with outstanding success. You can also use it in medium to shallow water as long as the wind or current is medium velocity. Lots of deep-water critters like it too!

  • The leader is 40 inches long and should be tied 10-14 inches above the sinker.
  • The hook is a 4/0 Mustad kahle, bait saver, recurred bend. I tie this hook directly to the leader. I prefer a tied hook to a snelled one. Why? I can move the hook on the leader to position it for the most hook-setting area for the bait in use.
  • It uses the best VINYL 4.3/4 inch squid body, with eyes on the squid. I believe in eyes. FLUKE and other predators see them and attack much more ferociously.
  • The lure should have color coded attractors placed to keep the squid body open and undulating. The water flowing around the body makes the tentacles come alive.
  • A color-matched convex blade and beads give this rig that bait body color and movement that most DOORMAT-SIZED FLUKE are used to seeing.
  • The cupped, color-matching blade puts out a sound wave that calls fluke from large distances. The matching color PULSES and appears to the fluke as a wounded or hurt bait fish. This deep-cupped blade will turn and wobble when others stop and ruin the action.

 <<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>>Remember that fish are curious and will be drawn to something that they hear and see.

To drift for other predator species and for Fluke in water <10ft use a similar lure without the blade and other attractors (see my DOORMAT LURE).

LURE COLOR

  • In deep water >30 ft glow is my 1st choice followed by GLOW or Blue sparkle or green/sparkle or pearl, then pink/red.
  • Inshore in the bays and inlets (<30 ft) for fluke, then you would start off with Pearl (bunker) , White/Sparkle( spearing) or Green/Sparkle (sand eel). Red again will catch lots of these fish later on in the season
  • Try to match the color of existing bait fish in the area.

  • I use the PEARL color when small, mostly white bait fish (bunker) are in the area.

  • WHITE with SPARKLES is used when glass minnows or spearing are schooled up.

  • GREEN with SPARKLES is used when sand eels, mud minnows or brown/green baits are prevalent.

  • Pink/red is great when shrimp or squid invade the area.

  • On overcast days use colors that glow

DRIFTING TIPS FOR FLUKE

When this bait rig is fished high, it gets DOORMAT-SIZED fluke in attack mode. Tie it on to your main line 10-14 inches ABOVE the sinker ( I DO NOT use a 3-way swivel). I'll repeat... 10-14 inches ABOVE the sinker. Add bait as described above, making your bait strip in a pendant shape. Remember, make your bait strip in a pendant shape, and keep it at least 6 inches long. Be patient. The combination of bright colored skirts, matching colored blades with DEEP, DEEP, DEEP cups that make the blade turn SLOWLY causes the thumping and thrashing that gets those monsters turned on.

This placement of VINYL squid body or deer hair ATTRACTOR,+ spinner blade and bait adds not only color and movement, but also adds smell and natural bait oils to the presentation: Remember what I said about SIGHT, SMELL, and SOUND!!

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> Increase your chances by DEAD STICKING one rod while actively fishing the other. A good drag is needed and the setup has to be right or you will lose the fluke of your life. DO NOT pick up the rod 'till the rod is racked over and line is spooling off the reel. Give that monster time. You must feed him on the DROP back. Don't hurry. Why lose a fish of a lifetime 'cause you didn't give that doormat enough time.

REMEMBER when you COMBINE DRIFTING (your DOORMATTER TYPE rig) with JIGGING (a CHROME BALL rig ), you are CREATING a scenario that few species can ignore.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> NEVER…NEVER…NEVER let your DOORMAT type bait rig get more than 30 feet from your boat. Why you ask? Because the further back you let this rig get, the closer to the bottom your bait gets and you HAVE EFFECTIVELY REMOVED your bait from most fish’s eyesight.

BAIT

Bring plenty of bait to whack 'n stack 'em. Squid is the old standby, but I prefer mackerel strips because they last longer, have a stronger scent, and flash better. Any bait fish can be used. Cut these strips 3/4 inch wide, 6 - 8 in long and to a point. Put this strip on the hook ONLY once and through the wide part. When using a mackerel strip, or baitfish fillet, put it on the hook SKIN SIDE up. That makes the strip lay flat behind the hook so it can’t flip up and cover the hook barb. I usually taper the cut bait to make it look like a pendant, adding more movement to the bait rig. Then add a live killie or mud minnow after the bait strip. Hook the mud minnow from the bottom up through the lips and out the front to one side of either eye. This makes the live minnow jerk from side to side just like a hurt bait fish ....EASY MEAT

When using sand eels or spearing or dead bait, put 3 or 4 on the hook, through the eyes. Why? The baits lie on their sides, and the drift or jig makes the bait flash and wiggle better. The traditional way is to bring the hook out under the mouth but this way the fish just follows along in a straight line, unable to flash and swing from side to side.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> DON’T use small baits. You want BIG FISH? BIG FISH WANT BIG FOOD, so give them a big presentation. Big baits in deep water – BIG BAITS are your key. Big Baits = Big Fluke.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> Increase your odds. use CHUM when anchored. Use ground up bunker, spearing, sand eels, mullet or any type of bait fish that has an oily consistency. As you mash up and chill this bait fish for chum, add silver flecks to it. When on the grounds, hang this in a mesh bag. As the chum dissipates, the silver flecks will float further down tide, catching the eyes of Mr. Doormatter. FLUKE are SIGHT FEEDERS. You can't catch them if they don’t see it and smell it. Doormat-sized fluke will be drawn in far from the chum line because they WILL SEE the silver flecks from far greater distances than the chum line.

 

SLOW TROLLING

 

Use SUPER DOORMAT type lure as described. SSSLLLOOWW is the key word here. If you have to, back troll to slow your boat down enough. Find a rip line, channel edge, major depth change. Put just enough weight off a 3-way swivel(this should be 24 inches from the sinker) to keep your presentation 10-12 inches ABOVE the bottom and 20 feet behind the boat. Leader length should be 3 to 4 fit.

SSSLLLOOOWWWLLLYYY keep the SUPER DOORMAT moving in and out of the rip line, drop-off, or channel edge. As big fluke and OTHER species keep moving with the rip line and tide movement, you will keep this presentation in their active feeding areas.

Fish this rig in free spool with your thumb on the line. When the fish hits this presentation, he will drop down to the bottom and then suck the bait down. YOU MUST GIVE THE FISH TIME TO HOOK HIMSELF ON THEIR TURN . If he's hooked, then reel him in. If not hooked by just lying on the bait, drop back again for that 3 count and repeat. I did that to one fluke 6 times. It weighed in at 11 POUNDS, 5 OUNCES. This is a BIG FLUKE /BIG FISH Rig. It can also be fished on a dead stick rod. You will see that rod bounce 2 or 3 or 4 times as a FISH attacks the bait, then BEND WAY OVER on the hook set.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>>Try a strip Bluefish strip 6-10 inches long. Put this on . ONLY BIG FISH WILL ATTACK IT.

 

SOME GENERAL HINTS

 

Fish the SUPER DOORMATTER TYPE rig in a running tide. Keep your leader at least 10 inches above the sinker, I prefer 12 inches. This keeps your presentation away from the crabs. Look for rough bottom, channel edges, wrecks, and reefs that your QUARRY will move up and down with the tide seeking their forage. When the tide slows and stops, they will be in the deepest part of the bay. As the tide starts again, they will move up onto the shallows to feed again.

FLUKE:

Huge fluke are on the 40-80 foot depths. Find a wreck or rock bottom and DRIFT as CLOSE as you can. You'll lose a rig or two but it's worth it when that SUPER SIZED FLUKE is in the net.

<<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>><<<HINT>>> Work alongside wrecks (as close as you can). Use big baits WITH color-coded blades WITH a DEEP CUP. This will get those FLUKE jumping all over your big baits. The CHROME JIG hopped and bopped next to a wreck will work when all else fails. Fish bottom contours from the bottom up onto the shallow section. When you get a hit, repeat short drifts over the same ground.

If you're on a jetty, at the change of the tide, hit that hole that's almost always just off the tip of the jetties. A lightweight rod and reel will get that smart DOORMAT or Redfish or Bass using a lightweight jig.

Most of the smaller fish will inhabit the shallows to feed on the smaller bait fish and get away from the monster fluke and other predators.

If you must fish the bays, then look for tide rips. If you can back troll these rips with your bait rigs just working the edge of the rips. This is where the bigger fish will be. Drifting through them is an alternative way to fish them. Let them eat your offering before setting the hook!

 

Copyright © 2008 Joseph Bielawski